Monarch of the Pub

Posted by Kate

Twenty years ago I planned a trip to Scotland based solely on the movie Local Hero. Now I’m planning my latest trip back to Scotland because of Monarch of the Glen. Have you seen this show on BBC America? It’s a soapy drama with unlikely plots and bad chemistry between Archie MacDonald, the reluctant laird whose parents summon him back to Scotland to run Glenbogle castle, and Lexie, the cook he eventually marries in season four.

But I don’t watch the show for the plots or the characters, I watch it for the amazing scenery and the fantastic castle, both of which are stunning and dramatic and totally worth the (gulp) $60.00 price for the latest season on DVD.

Glenbogle is actually Ardverikie Castle and it overlooks Loch Laggan, about 60 miles south of Inverness. I'd love to stay in the castle gatehouse, although it’s booked up far in advance. But there are other houses on the land and—my favorite part—you can arrange for a cook to provide meals! That whole self-catering thing doesn’t really appeal to me or my husband. In fact, he’d just as soon spend the evening in the local pub.

Which brings me to part two of my planning. Pubs. That’s our deal. If I plan a tour of a local museum or castle, I'm required to find the closest pub for the husband to hang out in. As a former bartender and connoisseur of all things alcoholic, he’s perfectly content to while away half the day, drinking beer and getting to know the locals. It's his own way of soaking up the history of a place (that's his story, anyway). His favorite pub is the Ensign Ewart in Edinburgh, just steps away from the Castle.

Now if you look up the Ensign Ewart on any pub list or travel guide, you’ll find it gets extremely low marks for service. The reason is simple. They don’t cater to tourists. In fact, they hate tourists. They cater to drinkers. They love drinkers. If you’re there to enjoy the beer and the great music, you’re more than welcome. But if you’re looking for charming atmosphere and a welcoming smile, buzz off. As one reviewer noted, they even lock the loo to “halt the influx of incontinent and flabby tourists” traipsing down from the Castle.

However, if you prove yourself a regular type, the folks at the Ensign Ewart might invite you to explore the original pub, located under the present establishment. At closing time the first night we were there, the owner insisted we stay and have another drink as he ushered everyone else out the door. Then he had us step behind the bar where he lifted the floor plank and took us down the steep, narrow stairway into another world.

This original pub may have been operating as far back as 1590. The space is dark and just a bit spooky, and if you stand upright you’ll likely smack your head on the low ceiling beams. He led us toward a thick wooden door and allowed us to heave it open to reveal the original close that ran along the back of the pub.

If you make it this far on your private tour, you might see the resident ghost. I did. She wore a pale nightgown and was running away from us down the narrow passage. I couldn’t really blame her. After all, the loo was locked up for the night.

I love to hear travel stories! What are some of your favorite places in the world? Have you ever slept in a castle? Have you seen any ghosts?